We had just arrived in Albuquerque for the annual "cousins" trip and we were discussing what we planned on doing on our five day stay in Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico. Shopping seemed to be high on the list for the ladies. But my wife,Kathy, had a whole list of museums to visit as well. Then there were the side trips to the Pecos National Historical Park, Taos and Bandelier National Monument. I casually mentioned that I would like to see the Glorieta Pass Battlefield. After all I had read Don Frazier's Pate Award Winning Book - Blood and Treasure. And this was the pivotal battle of the 1862 campaign of Texas troops under Brigadier General Henry Hopkins Sibley and the end to the Confederacy's quest for a Southwestern empire. Unfortunately, Kathy and my children gave up on trying to stay interested in Civil War Battlefields many years ago. So the prospect of a trip through a New Mexico battlefield was not high on her list. But Cousin David Nancrede and Cousin-in-Law Tom Mehaffey earned my eternal gratitude by saying that they would both like to go.
The next day we spent the afternoon at Pecos National Park and saw the ancient Indian Pueblo and the Spanish era mission remains. However, I was fortunate to meet Park volunteer, Jean Higgins, who along with her husband, Rich Higgins, were instrumental in creating the Glorieta Pass Battlefield Trail. She gave us the maps and brochures on the battle as well as the code to the lock on the gate that controls access to the Trail.
So two afternoons later David, Tom and I made the drive back to Pecos for our Civil War Battlefield tour while the ladies shopped in Santa Fe. Thankfully, the combination to the lock worked and we were on our way on the trail. It is an unpaved but well maintained trail of 2.25 miles and is described as "moderately strenuous." The elevation change is 500 feet and the brochure says it takes about 1.5 hours.
The area is heavily wooded today. At the time of the battle the area was devoid of underbrush and had only a few trees. So like many Civil War battlefields one has to use imagination to visualize exactly how the battle took place. However, the trail is well laid out and it gives you a good idea of the terrain and the distances involved in the fighting. In short, it is well worth the trip.
David (right) and Tom (left) joined me on the Glorieta Pass Battlefield tour. About 100 yards into the 2.25 mile trail both asked me how many more hills to climb. My response was: "It's all downhill from here." Of course, it wasn't. It is a pretty hilly walk with some steady inclines on the trail. Every new hill brought the refrain - "Jim says it's all downhill." - between the huffing and puffing. But there are some very pleasant seating areas as well as some good signage. So I think it was interesting - even for my non-Civil War buff compatriots. At least, I hope I did not discourage two more battlefield tour prospects.
This just in from Andrew Wagenhofer - creator of the Civil War Books and Authors Blog. Drew helped the Fort Worth CWRT by providing nominations and input for the final selection of our 2007 A. M. Pate, Jr. Award recipient. His blog is first-rate and well worth your visit.
"Civil War Books and Authors was largely born out of my frustration in finding so little print and online information about the type of Civil War books I have the greatest interest in, namely small press publications dealing with the war's Trans-Mississippi and Western theaters. By small presses I mean anything from private publishers and university presses to museums, foundations, round tables and historical societies.
Local history is a special affinity of mine. Unfortunately, these publishers and authors have very few resources for marketing and promotion, and, consequently, can be extremely difficult to find (even with the help of the internet). In my own small way (through reviews, announcements, and interviews), I try to facilitate these books reaching their audience.
It's my belief that the state of Civil War publishing is as vibrant as it's ever been. Good or bad, prospective authors have more options than ever before, including improving print-on-demand technologies. While this certainly leaves us with no assurance that the future will give us better books, we can be certain of finding worthwhile works of interest if we are willing to search for them.
The members of the Fort Worth Civil War Round Table are to be deeply commended for their sponsorship of the A. M. Pate, Jr. Award in Civil War History. The reward and encouragement given to further scholarly inquiry into the Trans-Mississippi theater should be appreciated by everyone interested in this fascinating, yet comparatively neglected, region."
For additional information, click here.
Books by Steven Woodworth and Jack Waugh have been selected to be listed in the "Top 50 Best Civil War Books" List published by Civilwarinteractive.com. The books chosen were "Nothing But Victory: The Army of Tennessee 1861-1865" by Steven Woodworth and "The Class of 1846: From West Point to Appomattox: Stonewall Jackson, George C. McClellan and their Brothers" by Jack Waugh.
Civilwarinteractive.com is a great website loaded with good information. You will find everything from a Forum to summaries of all of the latest on Civil War blogs. The list was created on the basis of votes placed by visitors to and participants in the site.
Congratulations, Steve and Jack!
For additional information, click here.
The next few articles will summarize the Magical History Tour of Jim Rosenthal and Dr. Watson Arnold to trace the route of Grierson's Raid. This will take us from LaGrange, Tennessee to Baton Rouge, Louisiana with many points in between including Shiloh, Brice's Cross Roads, Tupelo, Newton, Vicksburg, and Port Hudson.
After many years of threatening to trace the route of Grierson's Raid from LaGrange, Tennessee to Baton Rouge, Louisiana we have finally taken the first step. Today, Sunday, June 22, Dr. Watson Arnold and I drove to Memphis, Tennessee. It is a fairly easy drive on I30 and I40 (from Little Rock to Memphis). Total driving time was about 7 1/2 hours.
Along the way we had the pleasure of visiting the Clinton Library in Little Rock, Arkansas. We arrived at the library about 12 noon and were told that the museum did not open on Sunday until 1 pm but the restaurant was open for brunch. Since we had been on the road for 5 hours and were thinking about lunch anyway, brunch sounded like a pretty good idea. (and it was) Cafe 42 is on the lower level overlooking the River. The brunch was good with a chef to prepare omelettes and waffles and a broad selection of luncheon choices. Prices were reasonable ($15.95 per person). This is the type of place you could enjoy every week if you lived close to Little Rock.
The Museum itself is very extensive with an orientation film, a reconstruction of the Oval Office as it was during Clinton's time in office, the Cabinet Room, biographical materials of Clinton's early years, a timeline of the years in office and specialty alcoves covering different topics of his administration (such as foreign policy, health care, trade, etc.).
While the Museum is professionally and impressively done I was somewhat surprised that it has very little historical balance. But this is not a Museum to present the Clinton years in office, this is the Clinton Library and it designed to tell the story as the President wants it told.
One somewhat distracting thing is that so many of the presentations are accompanied by audio that it is hard to listen to any individual piece. The competing sounds seem to drown each other out.
In one section of the Museum there are daily Presidential schedules for each day during the Clinton years. It is fascinating to see the timeline of the day with events planned to the minute.
Well worth the stop and time spent.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
A fascinating little place just a few blocks from Beale Street. This was the studio of the legendary Sam Phillips - the man who "discovered" Elvis. Well he also recorded and "discovered" such greats as Johnny Cash, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and many others. The studio that is now a National Historical Site is tiny. It consists of a restaurant/gift shop, the Museum upstairs and the actual recording studio. The studio is about the size of a two car garage and even though it was unused for over 25 years at one point it remains relatively untouched. To soundproof the studio Sam installed acoustical tile on the ceiling and walls. He also rebuilt the ceiling with two large "wedges" so that the sound waves would not bounce back to the recording devices.
Young, energetic and musically talented tour guides provide a 30 to 40 minute tour. Lots of good stories and musical clips. Amy did a great job for us.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
Anyone who visits a National Park has to be impressed with the young people who work there as "seasonal" employees. I have always found them to be knowledgeable, energetic, friendly and interested in helping people. It is a great job for a young person. What better way is there to learn history and service?
Our bright eyed, smiling and helpful NPS "seasonal" at Corinth was at her "post" at 8:45 AM despite a 2 1/2 hour drive from her home in Tennessee. Thank you, Heather.
For additional information, click here.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
An early morning start from Collierville (just outside of Memphis) meant we were the first visitors to the Civil War Interpretive Center in Corinth at 8:45. This is a very impressive, brand-new facility that is part of the Shiloh National Military Park. The presentations are superbly done with excellent graphics and narrative. Two movies are shown on a continuous basis - one on the battle of Shiloh and the second on the Battle of Corinth. The Center stands just to the rear of Battery Robinette - a key position in the Battle of Corinth.
We were at the Center for just over an hour. (Really, we should have allowed at least two.) Some of the presentations on the background of the War were a bit redundant for us. However, this would be a good stop for a family interested in giving their children some of the history of the why, who, what and where of the Civil War.
For additional information, click here.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
This is my fourth visit to the Battlefield at Shiloh. Two of my trips have included extensive hiking of the site. The last two have followed the driving tour with the help of the CD available in the bookstore.
The CD is very well done with appropriate quotes from "participants" in the battle. Despite some bad "accents" the narrative is an accurate and entertaining background for the tour. It is very helpful when you have more than one person. By listening to the CD everyone is on the "same page" so to speak.
Shiloh is probably my favorite Civil War Battlefield. It's only drawback is that it is so remote. Of course, that drawback is also what adds to its impact. Because it is so far removed from civilization your view of the field is not spoiled by a golf course, housing development or major highway.
The serenity of the park contrasts sharply with the events that occured there in 1862 and adds to its impact.
(Speaking of the bookstore I was surprised and disappointed that I was not able to purchase the Shiloh Battlefield Guide by Steven Woodworth and Mark Grimsley. I was told they do not carry it.)
For additional information, click here.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
The best Battlefield with the worst movie!
If you would like to see the movie with the worst fake beards, don't miss the production shown at the Shiloh Visitor Center. The movie that explains the battle has to be at least 40 years old. The graphics are almost childish. (It is amazing how computers have advanced this field.) The "acting" is non-existent. The beards look like squirrel tails glued on the faces of the "actors." Add in the fact that the air conditioning system has a bad case of "dirty sock syndrome" (It smells and humidity is very high.) and it makes you wonder why the Park System spent so much money on the Corinth Interpretive Center without first upgrading this "jewel" of Civil War history.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
After the Battle of Shiloh, Grant ordered his men to bury Confederate and Union soldiers. After the War the Union soldiers were re-burried in the Federal Cemetary. Five of the Confederate mass burial sites remain. No other part of any Civil War battlefield has more impact on me than these burial trenches.
For more information, send email to jimrosenthal5757@aol.com.
The diversionary raid into Mississippi begins in La Grange, Tennessee on April 17, 1863. Colonel Benjamin Grierson leads 900 troopers from Iowa, Illinois and Indiana on a Raid described by one Confederate observer as: "The Bravest Thing Ever Done."
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As one of the Park Service people said: "Wal-Mart has alot more of the Battlefield at Tupelo than we do." He was right.
The battle for Tupelo, Mississippi took place on the outskirts of the city in July of 1864. The ironic twist was that Union forces held the city and Confederate forces were trying to capture it. As was so often the case in the Civil War the defenders had the advantage and repelled the attack with a large loss of life in the Confederate ranks.
There is virtually none of the original battlefield left. The city of Tupelo simply grew around it and on it. The "Park" is about the size of large city residential lot. (But it does have a nice view of the Papa John's across the street.)
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a magnificent 450 mile long National Park stretching from Nashville, Tennessee to Natchez, Mississippi. It was originally used by Indians to travel this area of the country. Later it was used as the return route for boatmen from the Ohio River Valley who floated the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers with agricultural products. They would sell their boats for the wood and then make the long walk back.
The invention of the steamboat changed everything. This gave riverboat captains the means of moving upstream and eliminated the need for a slow, difficult and sometimes dangerous overland journey.
The current Trace is a well maintained two-lane highway. It is not only a historical route, it is a beautiful nature preserve as well. Driving on the Trace made a nice change from the two lane highways of rural Mississippi. We followed this route for about 50 miles and then picked up the Grierson's Raid trail again.
Grierson's Raid was conceived by General Grant as a diversionary action to distract Confederate troops in Mississippi from his goal of capturing Vicksburg. The stated purpose was to break up Confederate supply lines by destroying the railroad and supplies at Newton Station. The Raid was successful on both counts. Confederate troops from all over the State were in hot pursuit of Grierson and his troopers burned warehouses, destroyed rolling stock and tore up the railroad at Newton Station.
The tracks were in such bad shape that it took quite sometime to make the repairs necessary to resume freight traffic. Ironically the tracks by the current Newton station were torn up when we visited. (I even have a railroad spike from Newton Station!)
After the side trip to Tupelo we are back on the Grierson's Raid Route in Houston. The town was named after Sam Houston by it's founder, Joel Pinson. Pinson was a friend of Houston's and felt this was a way to honor him for his victory over Santa Anna in Texas.
Houston has a beautiful town square with the County Courthouse. When we were there preparations were being made for the July 4th celebration.
Each time I visit Vicksburg I am reminded that was really not a battle, it was a siege and one of the first instances of trench warfare. The Texas State monument is on the 2nd Texas Lunette. Union forces dug trenches within 15 feet of the Lunette. Confederate soldiers lobbed artillery shells with lit fuses into these trenches with devastating results. Several Union attacks were also attempted and repulsed in this area of the battlefield.
We were very fortunate to be able to use the GPS Ranger Guide thanks to our friend Park Historian, Terry Winschel. This is a must to use on a driving tour. As you pass set positions in the park the Guide provides video and audio descriptions. At first, we tried to "operate" the device by stopping and starting it. After a while we realized that it "had a mind of its own." All we had to do was turn it on and drive the car!
I had forgotten how many State monuments are in the Park honoring their sons who served. Many of these monuments are truly magnificent structures (the Indiana Pantheon comes to mind). This is quite a contrast to Shiloh where there are comparatively few.
Vicksburg is one of those "must sees" for a Civil War buff. It is well worth the time to visit as often as possible.
Several years ago we had the pleasure of having Ed Bearss present the story of the raising of the Cairo for our Civil War Round Table. It is a great story and only Ed can tell it right. We were very fortunate.
It makes the story complete to see the Cairo resting safely in the Vicksburg NMP. The thing that struck me was that it was pretty small for the number of people on board. Living conditions had to be pretty tough. Even the officers did not live in comfortable quarters.
An added benefit is the extensive Cairo museum. The artifacts recovered from the ship provide a vivid impression of what it was like to be there in the 1860's.
After almost two weeks of hard riding Grierson's force was South and East of Vicksburg. Confederate cavalry and infantry were converging from all directions. Col. Wirt Adams and seven cavalry companies were sent from Port Gibson to locate and defeat the raiders. They set up an ambush for Grierson at Union Church. Just before entering the town Grierson received word from his own scouts what the Confederates had in store for him. He avoided the town and the ambush and moved his troops toward the Louisiana state line.
Just before Grierson's raiders reached the Louisiana line he attacked and drove off three cavalry companies under Maj. James De Baum. Lt. Colonel Blackburn was mortally wounded in the engagement. The Federals then raced for Baton Rouge, covering the 76 miles in 28 hours.